Day 01: Kathmandu – Nepalgunj. We take flight to Nepalgunj in the far west of Nepal. This one-hour flight is quite remarkable as it is traverses the entire length of the Nepl Himalayan west of Kathmandu, with superb views of Langtang, Manaslu, and Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri and finally Dolpo, Nepalgunj is closed to the Indian border, and quite warm in comparison with Kathmandu. We check into the Hotel, fifteen minutes drive from the airport. Day 02: Nepalgunj - Jumla We have to be at the airport early as we take the first flight to Jumla where we meet the crews who have walked in from the road head ten days early. Day 03: Jumla – Gothi Chaur (2, 800m) The start of the trek. The first day is always a bit slow as the porters get into the swing of things, but a rhythm soon develops. We follow the bank of Tila River and reach Garjankot for lunch. A slightly longer walk in the afternoon passes a few houses and an Irrigation channel on the right. From which there is a lovely view across the rolling hills behind. The camp is 200m below at a sheep from known as Gothi Chaur (2800m). Day 04: Gothi Chaur – Naphuknona ( 3,100m) Walk through the alpine forests and clear streams and two hours after leaving the camp you reach the village of Munigaon and then the trail continues south east to Jajarkot and the Bheri River. After lunch, a short afternoon's walk leads to the village of Naphukhona with a large Tibetan Choten. Our campsite is 10 minute further on below the Gompa at Chorteng. (3100m). Day 05: Naphuknona – Bheri River Valley (3,100m) You will follow the river through some of the most superb forest so far encountered and have lunch after only two hours by the start off the climb to the Maure La (3,927m). The climb from the lunch spot takes around 45 minutes and is rewarded with some very fine views of the Bheri River Valley and the Peaks of Ghyuthumba and Matathumba. In the distance a hundred miles away, the huge bulk of Api is the dominating peak to the west. The excursion to the cairn at the top of the hill above the pass is well worth it for a superb view of the Dhaulagiri Massif and Annapurna II clearing in the forest. Day 06: Bheri River Valley – Hurikot (2, 650m) Today, you will have an extremely enjoyable walk, at first through forest, which yields the first view of the Kagmara Lekh and the Bheri River itself. The path can be seen contouring across the hillside through the village of Chaurkot, after which it descends to a stream and climbs again to another saddle. After lunch by the stream, continue on the trail and the village off Rimi and Kaigaon are soon clearly visible and the path drops down through Rimi, which is quite dirty, to the more picturesque Kaigaon stay on the left side of the river, as the campsite is 20 minutes further on below the village off Hurikot (2650m). Take chance to visit the monastery of Hurikot. Day 07: Hurikot – Garpung Khola Follow the stream to the village, which is very Tibetan in character. The path climbs gradually staying high above the Garpung Khola for two hours until it reaches thee Jagdula Khola and a lunch stop at the army post on the opposite side (2,950m). A steep climb for half an hour leads to a clearing with an excellent view of Kagmara V.Continue along the left bank to camp by a bridge crossing the Garpung Khola. Day 08: We start the trek following the river upstream. A short morning's walk and a rest afternoon. Cross the bridge and follow the river for two hours to reach a fine vantage point of the route ahead, including the campsite, which is an hour further. The first night at 4000 meters. Day 09: A big day crossing the Kagmara La (5100m). Prepare for the toughest day as you have to cross Kagmara La pass. The pass is marked in the traditional Tibetan way with hundreds of prayer flags, and the view is quite stunning. The short climb to the summit of Kagmara RI (5,370m) takes no more than half an hour, but the extra view is well worth it. The mountains of Tibet and Mount Everest in the distance form just part of this impressive panorama, which is dominated by the Dhaulagiri massif and the Annapurnas. The view to the south and west of the Kagmara Lekh and the Kanjiroba Himal is equally impressive. There is no need to leave in a hurry, as the campsite is a mere hour below the pass on a flat grassy clearing by the river (3450m). Day 10: Descend to Pungmo Village. A big descent, over 1200 meters, leads through an idyllic valley to the village of Pungmo. There are chances to see Himalayan blue sheep and other birds of pray Camp is made by the Choten the entrance to the village. Day 11: A spare day for leisurely visits. We have a spare day for leisurely visit of the important Gompa above Pungmo. There are in fact two Gompas as we have entered a region where both 'Bon' and 'traditional' Buddhism are practiced. Chortens become very confusing as a Buddhist does clockwise circumambulation and the bons anti- clockwise. However, the lamas of both Gompas are willing to show you around for a small donation. Day 12: Trek to the village of Ringmo by the beautiful Phuksumdo Tal (lake). Keeping to the left side of the river, descend for one hour to a military camp (3,150m) at the junction of the Pungmo and Phuksumdo Rivers. Turn left immediately after the camp and follow a delightful path by the Phuksumdo River to a grassy clearing where you will have lunch and walk up to Ringmo which is very rewarding. Equally impressive is the huge waterfall falling down from the Phuksumdo River. From the prayer flags, a pleasant half an hour's walk leads to the village of Ringmo and camp is made on the opposite side of the village (3700m). Crossing the bridge in the village and turn left to reach the lake. Day 13: A rest day in Ringmo. The nearby monastery is worth a visit. Day 14: Trek to the camp below Kang Taiga. An easy day involving a couple of hours walks in the morning to a Yak grazing pasture by the Manduwa Khola. The path skirts along lodges hacked out of cliffs for the Yak caravans from Dolpo. The views down the Suli Gad and across to the Kagmara Lekh are particularly impressive. The campsite is in a lovely spot (3,900m) below Kang Taiga (5916m). Day 15: Cross Bagar La (5200m). Today, you will have the toughest day of the trek yet the most fascinating part of the trek. Cross the watershed of the main Himalayan onto the dry Tibetan plateaus. Following the river to begin with, the path turns north up the first obvious side valley and climbs steeply to the pass, which marked by a chorten and the usual prayer flags. The views to the east and north are one of complete contrast to those of the previous two weeks trekking. The mountain is orange and brown stretching out into Tibet to the north. The pass is often windy and the descent is party rapid to the river below and our camp (4,650m). The road to Shey and Saldang is clearly etched out of the landscape by the tracks of thousands of Yaks that have made the journey south over the centuries the lifeline of Dolpo. At this point, we are only three hours from the village of Shey, but access is not permitted. Day 16: Cross Numa La (5,350m) and trek to the Tarap Valley The walk into this beautiful and wild Tibetan landscape is one of the highlights of the trek. A four to five hour climb leads to the pass and the view is indeed stunning. Dhaulagiri I am the prominent feature, with the rolling Tibetan hills and the Kanjiroba Himal to the west equally impressive. For an excellent 36 degree panorama, climb the small peak to the left of the pass. The path descends gradually into the Tarap Valley. In two to three hours the Champa Gompa is passed on the left and camp is made a little further down the valley in the first village (4300m). Day 17: Trek to Serkam. The mornings walk passes through the villages off Clumaga and Kakar, both extremely interesting with many Chorten, again both Bon- the ancient pre-Buddhist religion and Choba -orthodox Buddhist. There are two Gompas (monasteries) in Dho, Guru Bumba (Chob) and above the village Scipcha Gompa (Bon). Leaving Dho-the last village, follow the the Tarap Khola River for two hours, at first on its left bank, to a bridge where lunch is taken. This is the last flat ground for three to four hours as the valley becomes narrow with deep gorges crossed by innumerable small bridges. However, it is an extremely well made path, one of the finest gorge paths in the Himalayas, offering an entertaining afternoon's walk. A small campsite by a big cave. Day 18: Trek to Khanigaon. Switching from the riverbank to way up the cliff side on some amazing constructions! After a long morning's walk (look out for Musk Deer), a large clearing by the river is reached. This is Lahini and marks the end of the gorge. The path Kanigaon (2700m) where we camp. Day 19: Trek to Tarakot. Head east for a few hundred yards to a well made bridge which is crossed to the left bank of the Barbung Khola, into which the Trap Khola now flows. This river is followed for three hours to the village of Tarakot where we stop and take rest for the remainder of the day. Day 20: To Dunai. Another easy day, continuing along the Barbung Khola through a beautiful alpine valley to the Hindu village of Dunai. Four hours walking. Camp by the new 'Blue Sheep lodge'. Day 21: To Juphal. The final day's walk continues along the river to a tea shop by the side of the path which marks the start of the climb to the Juphal airstrip. The path climbs steadily, passing through the village of Juphal to the airstrip. Camp is made outside the RNAC office. Day 22: Flight to Nepalganj. We take the flight to Nepalgunj, for an afternoon's rest before flying on to Kathmandu the following day. The views from the lake of the Annapurnas are famous throughout Nepal. |